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Bare Knuckle Boxer

In a recent shoot at CDIA, we were all shooting fashion models in glamour, fashion, and your basic "All-American" type styles. By contrast, one model showed he had a tough, serious side which gave me the idea for a classic boxing shot that you might have seen 30 or 40 years ago.

Using hard, split lighting from two 20 grids mounted on strobes on either side I was able to produce some dramatic light bouncing off his shoulders and cheeks, while a 18" dish above him provided a hair light and kicker. In fact, this was the same light I used on this very different shot here, and yet the results have very different feels.

At the dollar general store across the street, I found a squirt bottle and a roll of sports tape to help prepare the shot. I wrapped the tape around his hands the way boxers do before putting on gloves, pressing it into the knuckles to make it look worn and used. Still the tape didn't have that look and feel of the real thing because it was so white and shiny. Luckily, with a little improvisation, I found some leftover chocolate cake nearby which had a rich brown color, so I convinced the model to let me rub some of it into the tape. Wiping off the excess, it perfectly matched what could have been some dried blood and dirt.

For the final touch, we squirted him down with some (warm) water. Luckily he was really getting into the idea, so he didn't mind (that much!). The lights kept drying out the beads of water on him, so we had to keep spraying him down from time to time. With a little coaching on where to hold the hands and how far to bend forward, soon we had had our sweaty prize fighter ready to go in front of the camera.

As I was using a wireless file transmitter (Canon WFT-E1A) on my 30D, we were able to see some fantastic shots come directly out of the camera and onto my laptop screen set up next to me. The visual feedback allowed us to make some minor adjustments, letting us nail every one.

For post production in Lightroom I applied the Nostalgic Preset from Matt Kloskowski, and that was it before round tripping into Photoshop CS3 for some selective adjustments. There in PS, I first made a new layer to do some basic heal / cloning to remove some acne. I opted not to do any beauty retouching because I wanted the rough, athletic look to the skin rather than a smooth glowing look. In fact, I ran a Hi Pass filter over the image, a technique that sharpens edges and make the image pop in a 3D kind of way. Finally on some adjustment layers I added some red to the knuckles and brightened up the eyes.

This was my pick for the best shot of the series because he had that one eye staring intently right into the lens, which I think makes the viewer feel that sense of intimidation that makes the photo work.

View the large photo on Flickr or on my Photoshop Express People gallery.

 


Comments

Wow, Steven, this is great!

I'm really enjoying the chance to watch your skills develop as you make your way through the CDIA program. It's *almost* like being there ;-)


Thanks Rob. Your feedback really drives my motivation to keep learning and making better images.


Hey Steven,

I'm really enjoying your CDIA posts as well. That boxing shot was a really creative way to turn a regular model shoot into something unique and it works.


i gotta agree with rob, steven... its almost like being there, and you are certainly my inspiration for some of the stuff im trying to learn/use with my photog skills!

tw


Thanks Tony. In this particular shot, I'd have to say the most important factor was the lighting. Once you have camera skills down, then its all about creating the right light whether its in a studio with 3 or 4 strobes, on location with 1 strobe, or just anywhere on location outdoors where you take advantage of morning or evening light.

The key is creating contrast ratios. Using a light meter we measure how much light comes from each direction, and we dial them up or down to create ratios of light. In this boxer shot there's strobe head at camera right, slightly in front of the subject and slightly above his eye level. That light had a grid on it, something honeycomb shaped that force the light to be unidirectional and hard. That light was measured at F6.3.

Then another light was placed behind the subject and off to camera left. It also had a grid to force unidirectional light onto the subject from behind. In fact, the light in front right was pointing directly at the light in the rear left, something called split lighting where they are 180 degrees and facing towards each other. The grid light at left rear was pointing about 45 degrees towards the camera, just imagine a square where the camera is in the middle of the bottom side, the right front light is in the bottom right corner, the rear left light is in the upper left corner, and the subject is in the middle of the square. The two lights shoot diagonally across the square. Well because that rear light is pointing towards the camera, the angle of reflection produces a hard white shine, and that's where the glare is coming from (by design). That rear light was at F8, which is about 2/3's of a full stop hotter than the front F6.3 light.

Light is measured in whole stops with values such as F2.0, F2.8, F4.0, F5.6, F8, F11, F16, and F22. Each of those values is a whole stop from the one next it. A difference in a whole stop of light means in practical terms that there is a 2:1 ratio of light. So F8 has twice as much light as F5.6, and F5.6 has twice as much light as F4.0. So in my lighting setup, the front light was F6.3 and the rear light was F8 or about 67% more light, which helps to produce the glare.

Finally, there's a hair light above the model, at about F11. That light is an 18 inch dish with a strobe in the middle and diffusion cover over it. It produces a soft quality of light that doesn't have harsh gradients. That helps th light blend smoothly over the shoulders and arms, and makes the dark hair shine a little and "pull it off" the dark background. At F11, that means it has twice as much light as the F8 rear strobe and about 170% (or 1 and 2/3rds stops) more light than the front strobe.

The side lighting ratios can easily be produced outdoors without much training, and it can have a very similar effect. Using the sun as a main light in the morning or late in the afternoon, position your subject with something dark on the other side. Maybe you're outside under a porch, or maybe your inside next to a window. Either way, the point is that using natural light you can create these lighting ratios without worrying about measuring the light. Just note that one side of the face looks brighter, and the other side is a bit darker. Window light provides a soft gradient that's not too harsh, and really looks great.

The reason that lighting contrast ratios produce great photos is that the difference in light produces depth and texture. It allows us to better see the 3 dimensional shapes in a 2 dimensional representation. Think about all those pictures taken with cameras that use the built-in flash. Using the built in flash is one of the worst things you can do because it eliminates the contrast ratios and just fills the whole face with an equal amount of hard, plain light and faces look flat and 2D, not textured and 3D.


Great shot, nothing better than an All American looking sweaty guy to attract attention. The clarity and lighting of this picture is pristine. You definitely posses great skills and a talented eye.

Great improvising with the chocolate cake (lol). It definitely did the trick


 

 

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